Well, it's time to detail a definite "DON'T DO THIS", the repairs done to 
correct the self induced problem, and a shop recommendation (AVP).

Aways back I had oil leaking from some push rod tubes.  OK, easy 
enough, just pull 'em, replace the o-rings and end of problem.

During the installation I managed to NOT check that all of the push 
rods were seated into the recess in the rocker arm.

When the engine was started, the cam did it's thing, and pushed on 
the push rod, the push rod tried to do it's thing and push, but the 
end managed to get under the rocker arm and thus transfer the 
movement directly down, into the head.

I now had a pair of cracks.  Imagine a triangle about 1 inch on a 
side.  One side is the area between the two aft pushrod tube bores, 
and the other two sides are the cracks.  About 1/4 inch of aluminum 
remained un-cracked, at the base of the triangle.

Being desperate, broke, and disgusted, I reached for the carbide 
cutter and the drillmotor.  Ground out the crack, sprayed the crack 
as clean as possible with carb cleaner, and applied a liberal portion 
of JB Weld potion.

Ran without a leak, for about two days.  For the next few months I 
drove this way, spewing toxic clouds of burnt oil into the air as it 
hit the hot parts underneath.

TAKE THE TIME TO CHECK YOUR WORK, is the moral here.

Finally had had enough, and pulled the head off the 'other' '80 in 
my yard.  Turned out to be an original VW head.  Took it to a shop 
for a quick cleanup and check over for use temporarily.  $50 later I 
had a servicable head.

Did the Frankenstein thing and replaced heads.

Took the cracked head to AVP, here in Sacramento.  I expected to drop 
by, leave the head, and go home to retrieve later, as this shop is 
about 1/2 hour out of my way.  Not to be.  I got lucky.  Leonard 
happened to be doing welding that day, so "come back 
in an hour and a half, it'll be done".  Had a couple of ways to go on 
this.  Completely dismantle head, weld, remachine the valve cover 
surface, and re-machine the push rod tube bores, about $150 (new head 
$175).  Or just weld up the area and hand work it.  I chose the 
latter for a whole $50.  The old query, what would you do if this was 
yours, Leonard, was the one to ask.

Returned later to find a welded head, ready to go.  Leonard did a 
great welding job.  Job turned out tougher that expected.  During the 
removal of the JB Weld, the triangular piece fell out.  Leonard 
welded it back, gouged it out and welded both sides, and hand 
finished it to fit the push rod tubes and valve cover.  Been running 
it a week now with no leaks.

In one of my former jobs I held a AWS QC1 certification, as an American 
Welding Society Certified Welding Inspector.  I couldn't have asked 
for a better weld.  Excellent job Leonard.  If you need to get ahold 
for Leonard at AVP for welding of heads, welding T4 cases, engine or 
head rebuilds, etc, see their web site at:
http://www.sacbiz.com/avp/

He went through what they do to assure that the Type 4 valve seats 
won't drop.  I like their approach and solution to the common problem.
I'd like specific details on what other vendors do to provent seats 
from dropping, anyone?, specifically what does Mark Stephens do?

Impressed with AVP, or could you tell.  BTW he didn't know of my 
connection to this list until AFTER the work was done, so no special 
favors were given, just a good business to work with.

- Jeff '80 Westi