To All,

Yesterday. After my case came back from the machine shop, i pulled
it apart. I had them install shuffle pins (among other things). These
are known to make splitting the case a CHORE, i found out that
using an old head as a puller works fine. You have to unbolt the
#1 & 2 rods if the case still has it's internals. slide on the
(preferably old) head until it bottoms against the 6 big case studs,
use studs, bolts, spacers and/or whatever in the cylinderheadthreads
in the case, just to tighten the head *lightly* to the case. If you
have to apply much force: do not use this method on threads you have to
reuse. ONLY use this trick on a casesavered case, or one thats gonna be.
I did not have to apply much force, although you'd expect it, the
force is now distributed evenly over a large area. Make sure
every bolt or stud that's going to be screwed into a case thread is
clean and undamaged, and that ALL case bolts/nuts are removed,
including their washers and any sealer from the studs, or ANY foreing
material, it can jam a stud in its bore.

Now something else, this very case is getting quite expensive,
i can recommend a brand new (TI) case to anybody, even (maybe especially)
economically minded VW rebuilders.

I pulled some oilgallery plugs to gain access for cleaning, i opened the
reliefvalves also, when i looked into the rear plungerbore my jaw fell to
the floor: somebody (me,@#%$^) had used too long a bolt to attach the rear
enginemount, it created a 1.5 mm mountain in the plungerbore :(
I'm still thinkering about how i'm gonna solve this, maybe a Hoover (tm) Ball-
Valve and a threaded plug in the bolthole...

So everyone who has a TI engine with rearmount holes: Check this, it's
easily caused and/or overlooked. You don't want to know what happens if this
valve is stuck in its bore.

Brian.