In the interest of bandwidth conservation, I've opted not to post the 
L-O-N-G conclusion of my trip reort to vanagon@lenti... The big finale
can be found at the gopher-site instead:
halfdan.med.umn.edu:/Miscellaneous/Vanagon/Files... (look under 
tripreport, WA to southwest/midwest...)

And check out the other stories there-- all good reads (just be prepared 
to spend a good couple of red-eyed-hours at the ol' computer...  =)

Jeff