At 11:32 PM 7/7/2010 Wednesday, Troy wrote:
>Yes, I did start at 58.11. The description there then leads to
>procedure "C" on 58.15. What was not exactly clear is how loosening
>the hinge would allow for height adjustment. Well, it doesn't.
>Loosening the hinge is for the gap adjustment. What I just

I'm not quite clear on your issue.  Understand I haven't done this,
but procedure C appears completely straightforward.

Before you start you remove the C pillar beading, then you loosen the
hinge link bolts and move the link as high and to the rear as it will
go.  Tighten the bolts hand-tight.

First you install a spacing clip into the latch, so the striker pin
will be centered in the latch.  If you don't have the spacing clip
you have to either buy one or make one.  Without that clip you're
sunk, I think.  Then you move the striker pin to the center of the
locating marks and tighten it.

Then you shut the door using a slightly special procedure and measure
how much height difference and how much athwartships difference you need.

Then you open the door, mark the striker pin position exactly and
then move it the right amount up/down and in/out, and tighten it.

Then you check to see if the result is correct; if not, rinse and
repeat until it is.

Once that is all correct, you once again loosen the hinge link
bolts.  Use a plastic wedge to move the door fore-and-aft until the
gaps are even.

Then you pull or wedge the hinge link downward until the roller rests
on its track.  Tighten the hinge link bolts.

Finally, remove the plastic clip from the latch, torque the bolts
correctly and reinstall the beading on the C pillar.

Does that procedure make sense?  It does to me; and it's just a very
slight paraphrase of exactly what Bentley says to do.

Yours,
David