why not?
I did it with my red 'n white van.  sure, it might have been overkill,
but I never had a cv "go bad" on me.

On 3/5/06, Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@optonline.net> wrote:
> Annual CV joint inspections! Please stop! The real trick to CV joint
> life is using the proper lubricant. Shortly after the Vanagon got the WB
> engine CV joint noises where becoming a common problem. Around '86, VW
> changed the grease to some higher temperature formulae. This eliminated
> the problem. The grease that is supplied in all of the aftermarket kits,
> (blue tube) is the older grease. If you get the kits from the dealer,
> you get the later grease (white tube). Also, for the front outer joints
> the dealer kits have the correct high strength, longer locking nut.
>
> Dennis
> 1987 Syncro Westy
> FUN BUS
> 235,600 miles original CV joints and engine.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> Of Sudhir Desai
> Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 7:31 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: (rear) cv joint
>
> When I was at skip barber, we rebuilt the cv's in all the cars at
> regular intervals as they were rotated in and out of service.  What I
> remember most was the scrap pile that contained mountains of junk cv's
> that had very little wrong with them whatsoever (the small grooves you
> mentioned would have been cause to junk the entire assembly).  That's
> on heavy usage racecars, so there's not exactly a 1-1 correlation, but
> I would recommend purchasing a new set of 4 and then getting to know
> them better by rebuilding them once a year.  :D
>
> my $.02
>
> Sudhir
>
> On 3/4/06, Wesley Pegden <wes@cs.uchicago.edu> wrote:
> > Thanks for all the replies and help!
> >
> > Here's the damage report.
> >
> > I have all joints out and pretty well cleaned up.  None of them are
> > perfect: two of them have shallow grooves in the outer ring, but no
> > pitting.  Is this cause for replacement?  (If so, I need to replace
> all
> > 4).  The joints weren't making noise while on the car, and off the car
> > in my hand, they felt good and smooth.  The grooves average perhaps
> 1cm
> > long and 1mm wide, and they're not very deep... some are easier to see
> > than to feel, and some are easier to feel than to see.  But then
> again,
> > some tracks on the outer piece have 2 or 3 of these (usually in
> parallel).
> >
> > One of the joints has a ball with a little nick on one of the balls,
> and
> > a little bit of pitting in some of the tracks of the outer ring (in
> > addition to the grooves)---I guess I'm thinking I need to replace this
> one.
> >
> > Finally, the last one has slight pitting on several of the balls, some
> > wider grooves on the outer piece (one almost a cm wide), and
> significant
> > pitting in one of the tracks on the inner piece.  I guess I'm thinking
> I
> > need to replace this one.
> >
> > So, I guess my question is... am I right that I'm best off replacing
> > these two, and is it unwise to keep the other two, whose problems are
> > mainly grooves?
> >
> > Thanks very much,
> > Wes
> >
> > .John Rodgers wrote:
> > > Nope!  Wear rates are diferent in each CV and that wear changes the
> > > specs. our fits and clearances in the mixed parts would be all out
> of
> > > whack. The mixed-and-matched CV assembly wouldn't hold up very long
> > > and there would be ve\irtually no reliability. The thing would
> > > probably come apart and leave you stranded halfway between Somewhere
> > > and Nowhere, USA.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > John Rodgers
> > > 88 GL Driver x2
> > >
> > >
> > > Wesley Pegden wrote:
> > >
> > >> I think everything I've read has been pretty clear about this, but
> I
> > >> just want to check... I can't mix and match pieces from two of my
> > >> (original lobro) joints to get one good joint, right?  The stamping
> on
> > >> both joints is the same:
> > >> VW [logo] 211 501 331 B
> > >> LOBRO 49/83 W/GERMANY % N
> > >>
> > >> (The percent sign is a diamond with a W in it).
> > >>
> > >> Thanks very much,
> > >> Wes
> > >>
> > >> Wesley Pegden wrote:
> > >>
> > >>> Let me rephrase that... does a nick in one of the balls mean that
> > >>> JOINT needs to be replaced?
> > >>>
> > >>> -Wes
> > >>>
> > >>> Wesley Pegden wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>>> Does a nick in one of the balls mean a new bearing is required??
> > >>>> Thanks...
> > >>>> -Wes
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Sam Walters wrote:
> > >>>>
> > >>>>> For excellent instructions on CV removal, cleaning and
> reassembly,
> > >>>>> and
> > >>>>> installation, check these two links.  The second expands on the
> > >>>>> first.
> > >>>>> Pictures and explanation of how to know you reassembled them
> > >>>>> correctly.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>  http://volksweb.relitech.com/cvjoints.htm    Tom Carrington's
> web
> > >>>>> site
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> and Ben Huot's additions to this at
> > >>>>> http://www.benplace.com/cv_joint_maintenance.htm
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> --
> > >>>>> Sam Walters
> > >>>>> Baltimore, MD
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> 89 Syncro GL, Zetec Inside
> > >>>>> 85 Westy Weekender
> > >>>>> 85 Mercedes Benz 300D Turbodiesel - to become veggie oil powered
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> All incoming and outgoing email scanned by
> > >>>>> automatically updated copy of Norton AntiVirus.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>