Hello All,

While in the process of inspecting my recently acquired 85 GL I inspected
the front brake pads and they were down to maybe 1/1000 inch of pad left.
Well the PO got his moneys worth out of that set of pads.

I moved the the rear drums and with a borrowed impact wrench I took off the
46mm (1&13/16inch) nut. Low and behold the rear brakes were past the rivit
and the drum is scored badly. Also lifted the rubber boot for the brake
cylinder and fliud squirted out. So I ordered pads and linings and cylinders
from BD. Ordered Wheel bearing seals for the front and rear wheels from
Rocky Mountain Motor Works. Will go to a salvage yard in Lincoln Nebraska
for the rear drum.

While taking the front calipers off the lower bolt on the right caliper
would not budge. I used the impact wrench on it. It wouldn't go, so I
borrowed a bigger impact. Still no go. I was doing this over a few days
period so I was squirting penetrating fluid on it every day.

I work at a power plant so I talked it over with some of the machinists and
the plan I came up with was to use a mapp/oxygen torch I bought from
Menard's. I heated up the area on the steering knuckle that the bolt was
threaded into. I had to heat for maybe 1/2 hour because this cheap torch I
have puts out so little heat. Once it was hot enough that 'spit sizzles'
(300-400 degrees F) I took some special penetrating oil we have at work, and
with a Q-tip I wicked the penetrating oil into the space between the caliper
and the steering knuckle. I then let it all cool for 2 hours.

I then went back and tried the impact wrench, still no go. I then tried my
cheapie breaker bar combined with a 1 1/2 foot cheater pipe and a 6 point
19mm socket. I put a lot of torque to it and I heard a POP! I thought I had
broken the pin in the cheap breaker bar but NO! The bolt had given up and
came loose!

The bolt that came out is now a little twisted so that will be on my salvage
yard shopping list also.

One note is that using a torch close to the brake caliper like I did may
result in the caliper seals failing, I will have to see what happens when I
bleed the system and afterwards.

I am also replacing the beat up CV joint bolts so I will be so close to
having the rear bearing housing out that I am going to take it out and
refresh the grease in them also.

I have a 75 bug with a 2213 engine so I've been blasting around with that in
15 degree F weather while this job is getting along. Had to put synthetic
oil in the bug for this cold of weather if I wanted to turn any decent
RPM's.

So long Volks,

Mark Ingalls
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