> I should defer to the Physics Guy too, but over the years, slipping a thick
> walled pipe over my 3/4" drive breasker barr and standing  my 200# frame on
> the 2' mark away from the socket seems to get the nut tight enough.  Ishould
> say I've never had one come loose even using a 16 penny nail for a
> cotter key in an emergency fix

Thanks.  I usually just crank it on really good too, but sometimes it isn't
enough.  I wasn't worried so much about the nut coming off, but if it is
not tightened enough, the splines wear out on the hub and stub axle.  It
happens pretty quick once it starts and you get a hum like the bearings are
going.  If it gets bad enough, the wheel will actually "wobble".

I learned the hard way about this.  It took me two vans to finally figure
out what was causing it.  "Complimentary Brake Checks" when getting the van
serviced was the cause.  I noticed through the bay window of a garage once
that the stupid mechanic was taking off the axle nut to get at the back
brakes instead of just removing the drum (two little bolts).  I've aged
years since then and learned that if I was going to keep driving my VW's
that I would have to do most of my own work or stand over the shoulder of
whoever was doing the work.

** If someone is working on your van and has to remove the axle nut for
some reason, politely ask them if they know how tight to torque it when
they put it back on.  Even honest (ha) professional (ha ha) mechanics don't
seem to realize, or know.

I don't know why, (IS THE SHAFT TAPERED?) but I do know that it is
necessary to tighten them proper or they will wear out.

Thanks for the suggestions on tightening, I haven't found a 4 foot torque
wrench at any yard sales yet. . .

Gary Thaxter
74 transporter (panel)
78 westy
85 kombi
86 syncroGL