Hi All,

Quick note, the dealer here wanted $140Cdn ($90US) for the 'real' unit, but
they gladly order in aftermarket parts and get them just as quickly.  I
don't have to ask for this, they just do it and let me know what the real
VW part costs for comparison.  So a VW supplied upper joint cost me $35Cdn
($22US), between JCWhipme and BusDepot pricing, but from the dealer.
Strange days indeed!

To check upper joint, jack van, place BIG wooden block under lower A-Arm
and let van down onto it, keeping tire from touching the ground. If you are
lucky enough to have a hydraulic floor jack, use it under the A-arm
directly.  Then just grab the top of the tire and jiggle it. Will
click/clunk if shot.  Anyone want to guess why joints don't have zerk
grease fittings on them anymore? and....  Are you really cheap? rotate your
ball joints.  Yup, this practice was spec'd for my Saab96, loosen/free
joint, then rotate the spindle until slop is reduced to normal level and
retighten.  Considering the shape my Syncros joint was when I got it off, I
wouldn't risk this, could cause the joint to separate when it wears a bit
more... ooops!

bye, Tim