No dice - heads are so corroded that they're unrecognizable.  Cleaned everything up with a dremel wire brush, then hit them with (in reverse order) a MAPP torch, three days of PB Blaster three times per day, and a can of Loctite Freeze and Release.  Of the six screws, I got two out cleanly.  Two are still solidly fused to the knuckle in one piece, and the heads sheared off the other two.  Good times up here.

> On May 28, 2014, at 23:37, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> If the heads are intact at all no reason to get the knuckles to the bench.
> An oxy-acetylene torch will be your friend. If you can't grad the heads with
> screwdriver cut new slots with a cut wheel. Get grip, heat the knuckle,
> fast, and the screws should come right out. 
> 
> Dennis
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Dan Barrett
> Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2014 10:55 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: painlessly removing steering knuckles?
> 
> Dear All:
> 
> While replacing my falling-apart-rusty disc brake dust shields, I've run
> into the universe's rustiest fasteners (the machine screws holding said dust
> shields on).  I'd like to get the steering knuckles off the bus and onto a
> bench to work on those nasty machine screws.
> 
> The upper and lower ball joints, as well as the tie rod ends, are in good
> shape, and I don't want to do anything to necessitate replacing those.
> What's the best way of removing the steering knuckles without doing violence
> to anything?
> 
> Best,
> d.
> 
> --
> 1990 GL -- "Mudskipper"