Check for oil in coolant and coolant in your oil, coolant in your oil could
trash the bottom end. What started as a possible head or head gasket issue
could turn worse. On another make I have seen the water pump impeller
corrosion to a point that the blades were falling off. A thermostat is a
quick and easy swap as long as the bolts come out.

Velma 82 1.9L AAZ td westy
On Dec 31, 2013 9:39 PM, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Erosion. Look up cylinder cavitation erosion. I also know of some Hondas
> that have suffered from bad casting porosity causing oil leaks.
>
> Dennis,
> From my phone.
> ________________________________
> From: Al Knoll<mailto:anasasi@GMAIL.COM>
> Sent: 12/31/2013 9:19 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM<mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Subject: Re: Overheating
>
> Porosity as in corrosion?  Or porosity as in casting flaws?
>
> Inquiring minds want some snow.
>
> Pensioner.
>
> On Tue, Dec 31, 2013 at 2:54 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com
> >wrote:
>
> > These blocks are also getting porosity (aka Ford Power Stroke failure)
> and
> > cracks in the cylinder walls.
> >
> > Dennis,
> > From my phone.
> > ________________________________
> > From: Jim Felder<mailto:jim.felder@gmail.com>
> > Sent: 12/31/2013 5:48 PM
> > To: Dennis Haynes<mailto:d23haynes57@hotmail.com>; Vanagon mailing
> > list<mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
> > Subject: Re: Overheating
> >
> > Yes, in my haste to answer I left out the obvious. Warped or cracked head
> > equals a blown gasket as far as the car is concerned. My last round with
> > such a problem was only solved, after trying several heads, by sending
> the
> > block out to be resurfaced. The block tends to pull up "hills" around the
> > head bolt holes which leaves "valleys" between the studs, in the very
> > places that do the water sealing between the head and block.
> >
> > Jim
> >
> >
> > On Tue, Dec 31, 2013 at 4:18 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com
> > >wrote:
> >
> > > Could also be a cracked head or block.
> > >
> > > Dennis,
> > > From my phone.
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: Steve<mailto:loudmouth_70@YAHOO.COM>
> > > Sent: 12/31/2013 3:57 PM
> > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM<mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> > > Subject: Overheating
> > >
> > > Vanagon Listers:
> > >
> > > I've got an 82 diesel, she's overheating.  On 5 hour road trip, after
> > hour
> > > 4 started blowing cold air then back to hot, then cold again.  Soon the
> > > needle raised up and light flashed.  Had extra coolant with me, while
> > > topping off expansion saw that the cloth wrapped hose to fill tank had
> > come
> > > off.  Replaced and gingerly made it to destination.  Stopped three
> times
> > to
> > > let cool.  I figured I'd gotten air into the system and needed to bleed
> > it
> > > out.  I've done that today--with little success.  Got it up to temp,
> > parked
> > > on a ridiculous incline to get the air up to the radiator.  Not much
> > > hissing.  After 8 attempts only once did coolant bleed out.  Air
> > continued
> > > to blow mostly cold with heat cranked, occasionally while driving
> around
> > it
> > > warmed a little.  Needle would raise at low RPM's then return closer to
> > the
> > > middle when I revved it up.  Even at slower speeds with engine revved
> it
> > > would cool--that confuses me a bit as little air is moving over
> > >  the radiator--makes me think it'd be hotter.
> > >
> > > I'm wondering about two things: first what's likely to be the cause of
> > > this behavior?  Secondly, any tricks for getting me home before
> starting
> > > these projects?
> > >
> > > I'll be leaving Friday, I'm at Lake Chelan in WA, little town of Manson
> > to
> > > be exact.  My gut tells me Radiator for sure, pretty sure it's the
> > > original.  Not sure about thermostat or heater core.
> > >
> > > Happy New Year, appreciate the advice.  Nothing like bringing in the
> new
> > > year with a little repair work.
> > >
> > > steve
> > >
> >
>