just another add on.
> The debate over the merits of clicker vs beam torque wrenches moves me
> to a
> few comments. In my experience, I have used 4 different types of torque
> wrenches: the trusty beam, the widely available adjustable clicker,
> the dial
> (actually a beam and gear mechanism as has been pointed out) and the
> fixed
> calibrated clicker.
twenty years in fields where  torque was extremely critical. i also
have used many different types and forms of torque wrenches.
> My advice is, however educated your hand or butt is, use the torque
> wrench.
> Cheap insurance. Remember, no single time job is nearly as expensive
> as the
> second or third redo to get it right.
the ensuing investigations when it wasnt done right taught  me  a lot
about  how a little overtightened or undertightened  item can cause
some  major close  calls or disasters.  one of which an aircraft
cruising at 80000 plus went to 6000 feet at a most  inconvenient  time
and  not in the usual manner.  maint  tech forgot torque wrench and
estimated.  fastener snapped and  small cover was sucked into a very
bad  location.
>
> Now as to the torque wrench issue. As far as I'm concerned, the key
> problem
> here is calibration.
take care of your torque tools.  do not use as the main wrench to
remove items  or to reach the initial  contact point, or drop them.
> Frank Grunthaner

any time  i am dealing with  aluminum or  engines it is time for a
torque wrench. over torque may not be immediately noted but heat,
vibration and other stresses can magnify it greatly.  (in my opinion
this is where many blown spark plugs  come from) the same for under
torque.

any time a mfr has specified a  torque range, out comes the torque
wrenches.
jimt