I got my rear drums off without taking off the big nut like folks on the
list said.  I put the lug nuts back on the studs to protect the threads,
and that was a good idea because I hit them a few times.  I used a 3#
hammer and started tapping.  One side I think I hit about 100 times or
more.  I was really whacking it by the end.  There is an area of the drum
that I clearly dented on both drums, but it seems to have no effect.  It is
farther out than I really wanted to be hitting, but hit a few times by
accident.  I think if I were replacing shoes, it would be easier with the
hub of the car, so I would try to get the big nut loose.  I cleaned and
lubed the adjusters a little before reassembling.  And I observed the
direction to push the star wheel  to move the shoes out.  And this is
important.  And this is why I wanted to get inside the drum (also just to
check things out).  And now I have forgotten which way you need to push the
star wheel to make the shoes closer to the drum.  I think it was push the
star wheel down, or lever your screwdriver up if you prefer to think of it
that way.  It is the direction that is harder to turn the star wheel,
because you are working against the springs.

I found that I would adjust them out until I couldn't really turn the drum
by hand, then I would get in and pump the brakes a bunch, and pull the
parking brake up and down too.  Then I'd get out and the drum would turn by
hand again.  Repeated that process until pumping the brakes didn't make it
loose again.  Now brakes are very nice and parking brake actually holds the
vehicle on one click!

Have fun,
Edward